Cloudy in Beijing Blogging about my time in China

Art of War

Several beat downs erupted in Beijing this past weekend.

My classmates and I caught a Mixed Martial Arts competition on Saturday. The event was held by Art of War, China's own MMA company, which has been holding matches since 2005.

I don't really follow MMA. But it seems like this type of competition would fit well in China, considering the country's long history of kung-fu. The stadium, however, was far from full when the event finally began.  For most of the fights, the crowd seemed a bit subdued, with a weak applause accompanying each fighter as they entered the ring.

There were close to a dozen matches in total. Most of the fighters were Chinese, but a good number were also foreigners, coming from Korea, Thailand and Europe. And almost everyone offered a good show, serving up bloody noses, cut foreheads, along with the loud smack of a knee hitting someone's skull. Yet drawing the most attention was the main event, a bout between an undefeated Chinese fighter and his Japanese opponent.

Due to World War II and other past history, many Chinese people still hold some animosity toward Japan. This was quite audible as the main event started. "Kill him!" fans shouted. "Beat the devil!" a few others said. "Fight Japanese Imperialism," one man screamed.

The fighters fought two hard rounds, but both failed to give a decisive blow. It was then up to the judges to determine the winner. But even before then, we all knew who would be the victor.

My classmates would later complain the judging was bias, adding that the Japanese fighter fought well. I wonder what would have happened if the Chinese fighter lost; perhaps a riot would have ensued.

Christmas and turtles

Looking at this picture made me think I was in America for just a moment. But no, I was just at a Wal-Mart in Beijing. While shopping there today, I came across this newly displayed Christmas section at the store.

There will be no doubt more sightings of Elves and  Christmas trees in the coming weeks. Many businesses in China often will put up Christmas decorations.

One article, written last year, had a business manager in Beijing saying that Christmas is one of the peak seasons for sales. "Young people identify with Christmas culture," he said. "And young people are the main force that drives Christmas sales. They usually buy clothes or jewelry as Christmas gifts."

I don't really get the sense that a lot of people in China celebrate the holiday. But I myself am surprised that Christmas has such a visible presence here, since it only started hitting the mainstream maybe five-ten years ago. (There is, however, usually no day-off on Dec. 25th.) The holiday has even generated a bit of controversy, with people wondering if these more Western holidays are replacing traditional Chinese holidays in popularity.

Perhaps we all must succumb to the Christmas spirit at some point (I couldn't resist and had to buy a cartoon reindeer today).  But I suppose this all due to globalization. From Wal-Mart to Santa Claus, American culture sometimes just feel right next door.

Wal-Mart was  also selling turtles today. I didn't know this, but eating soft-shelled turtles is somewhat popular in China; they can make a good soup from what I've read.

An older couple ordered a turtle to go as I stood next to the booth. A woman working at the stand then slaughtered one right before my eyes.  Now the turtle's rather violent demise is still stuck in my head. I can only wonder if one day Wal-Marts in America will be serving up turtle meat. Probably not.

I forgot

Apparently today is Thanksgiving.

Only now, at around 7 p.m., have I just realized this.

My classmates and I were busy taking tests today. And in these last four hours all I've done is sat at my desk and study, two more tests on the horizon. It wasn't until I received an email that the words "Happy Thanksgiving" appeared before me.

Nope, they don't really celebrate Thanksgiving in China. Just as no one but us foreigners dressed up for Halloween. And so the dearth of holiday festivities shall continue.

I envy the people back in America; enjoying all that free time and good food. All I had for lunch today was some Kung Pao Chicken.

The moving church

Today I may have done something illegal: I went to church.

It certainly didn't feel like I was doing anything wrong. There were some Christian songs, a pleasant choir, and a thoughtful sermon made by the pastor (All done in Mandarin). It was quite pleasant, and no different from my experiences with Christian churches in America.

But here in China, some would much rather see the church and it's worshipers gone.

Because it is not registered with the state, the Chinese government has been trying to shut the church down. Recently they've gone as far to kick the worshipers out of their original residence, and have even detained the group's leaders from attending church services.

I was introduced to the church by one of my classmates, who had begun attending services there. Though I'm not Christian, I became curious after hearing about the church and it's plight.

In China, all religious groups must register with the government. But there are many underground churches that choose to remain independent from the state's influence. My classmate says he can tell there's a difference: when he went to a state-sponsored church in Beijing, he felt the sermons were too basic and lacked the depth he liked. My classmate was later connected to the underground church through his own back in America.

The underground church has about 800 members and is one of the largest of its kind in Beijing. Naturally this would draw the attention of the authorities. After they were kicked out of their former residence, church-goers were forced to hold Sunday services in a park earlier this month. That was, incidentally, also the same day man-made snow fell on Beijing.

Since then, the church has been moving around, finding new places to hold services each Sunday.Today they met in one of the buildings at an office complex. Where they will meet next week, church-goers will find out later.

Recently, the Wall Street Journal also wrote an editorial regarding the church. In it, the paper notes how some of the congregation's members were barred from going to the church in recent weeks.

One of those detained was the church's pastor. Yet somehow, he was present at today's services. My classmate, his girlfriend and I met the pastor later that day. After introducing ourselves, my classmate essentially asked: "I know we are trying to find a new place to hold sermon. But even if we do, can't the government just kick us out again?"

This was a good question. The church is trying to raise money to pay for a new permanent location. But they still lack the funds. I imagine even when they do gather the funds, it'll take some time before they can actually find a suitable place. So I expected the pastor to give us a long answer, explaining his rationale.

Instead, he calmly just nodded his head and said: "I believe everything will be fine."

No detailed breakdown. No alternatives given. Not even frustration vented over how ridiculous this situation was. "Everything will be fine" the pastor repeated with a terse smile.

And that was that.

As a journalist, I usually feel compelled to get more thorough explanations, especially when there are so many what-ifs to be wondered about it. But in this case, I could tell that all those pessimistic possibilities lingering about didn't much matter. The pastor's answer was simple: faith.

Obama in Beijing

There's always been a lot of discussion about the rise of China. Usually this centers on the country's seemingly unstoppable economic growth. Other times you can see it with some event like the Beijing Olympic Games. Or like last month's state-televised parade, in which the Chinese government showed off its nuclear weaponry. Yay!

China is indeed on the rise. But I have to say I really felt it this time with President Obama's visit.

China would never allow Obama to make one of his soaring idealistic speeches. (The government refused to broadcast his town hall meeting with Chinese college students while he was in Shanghai.) And Obama is careful not to do something that would threaten his repertoire with China. (He postponed his meeting with the Dalai Lama.)

But Obama came to China, holding a pretty lousy hand. Unemployment in America is in double digits, and the country is still struggling to start an economic recovery. Meanwhile China continues to chug along just fine, all the while still buying up American debt. If health care reform finally passes in the States, guess who will be the one to help finance it.

Naturally, Obama had little to nudge China with. Really, it was the other way around.

The New York Times used as their headline for Obama's recent visit: "China Holds Firm on Major Issues in Obama's Visit." The article said:

BEIJING — In six hours of meetings, at two dinners and during a stilted 30-minute news conference in which President Hu Jintao did not allow questions, President Obama was confronted, on his first visit, with a fast-rising China more willing to say no to the United States.

The Wall Street Journal was less generous and instead headlined with:  "Obama Hits a Wall on His Visit to China."

BEIJING -- Barack Obama's first trip here signaled a turning point in relations between a weakened U.S. power and a China that senses its time has come, as the president was hectored about economic policy, largely ignored on human rights and restricted in his efforts to reach out to ordinary Chinese.

Some might say this is more of the two country's treating each other as equal partners. This was bound to happen. But while China rises,  I can't help but feel America is maybe on the decline.

I myself am a part of this; I came to China looking for opportunities, and was lucky enough to avoid America's economic crisis. Now when people ask me if I want to return to America, I usually end up saying: "Uh, I don't think I could find job if I did go back."

China still has it's problems, and who knows what the future will bring. But for now, it is the land of opportunity, at least in my case. (An irony since it was my parents who left Taiwan for opportunities in America.)

Flu shot

This past Saturday I took an H1N1 flu vaccine shot at my school, which had been offering them for free. Two days later I got sick.

The symptoms have been high fever, with some mild coughing. I'm starting to feel better now, but I don't know if my illness was something I contracted or perhaps just side effects from the vaccine. Lately people around me seem to have been getting the cold, with my roommate even complaining of a sore throat.

It hasn't been the best week so far, and I expect to be screwed over as the days continue. Next week I have mid-term exams. Perhaps out of cruelty or convenience, the school has decided to hold all six of my tests during that week. I have yet to study for them, and don't really plan to, since I have articles to write. (So much for being a good student.)

Match maker

Yesterday one of my former students from Xi'an sent me a text message. He asked for help, and I was happy to see what I could do for him. But I wasn't quite prepared for the request.

"In America, are there any ways for the people there to find wives in China?" he asked.

"My aunt wants to find an American husband," he added. "Or if you know of any dating services, that could help too."

Naturally, I laughed. My former students don't need me to help them with their homework. Just play match maker for their family members.

I soon learned more about the situation: the aunt's husband had recently passed away. She complained that Chinese men are too complicated, and now she was hoping to find an American husband that was 50 to 60-years-old.

My student added that her aunt feels like foreigners don't have quite as many troubles as Chinese men, whatever that means. I wanted to know more, but I didn't want to make my student feel embarrassed. Instead, I went on the Internet and tried to see what I could find.

Apparently, there are a number of sites that specifically cater to foreign men looking for Chinese women. Such as ChineseLoveLinks, ChineseWife, ChineseLoving, Chinesekisses, etc. Just looking at these sites made me feel a little weird. There was even another website called LoveChineseGirls that offers tips to foreign men about how to meet Chinese women. In an article titled Why You Should Be Dating Chinese Women, the writer (most definitely a male) said:  "While it may sound sexist, a large number of Chinese women are raised to serve their man and be obedient to him."

As evidenced by my student's plea for help, there are also some Chinese women who have made it their goal to get married to a foreigner.

Recently I read an article on the Internet by a female Chinese college student that was titled 'China Does Not Have Any Men Suitable For Me.' From an excerpt:

Having said this much, that the environment is good, material things are good, this third point is what I value the most: I simply like Western men. Ever since I was small, I liked watching Western movies, such as Roman Holiday” or “Gone with the Wind,” and I liked watching the Westerners in the movies, their faces are all so sharp and distinctive, especially their charming coloured eyes, their straight pronounced noses, their tight smooth lips. Moreover, the majority of Westerners are tall, have strong and handsome physiques, and always so sexy. Then I look at the Chinese guys around me: Ignoring the small eyes, they have lumpy noses, thick lips, and if their skin is tanned a bit, they look remarkably like Africans. Those who have been educated almost all look malnourished, making me worried whether they can protect me or not. Occasionally, there is a muscular man, but despite having grown a head, they did not grow a brain.

I asked my Chinese language partner, who is a female in her 20's, what she thought about this.  She said there are more and more Chinese women who do desire to find a foreign guy. "These women are more open and flexible," she said. "They maybe feel that a Chinese man is too conservative and traditional. But that a foreign man is more appropriate for their lifestyle."

I suppose there are also certain people who aren't quite as receptive to this. My mom has always told me to be wary of Chinese girls on the mainland. They might just want to marry you for your money, she's warned.

There are definitely some interesting motives when it comes to this topic, and I'm sure most people have their own opinions. But for now, I guess I'll just play match maker and help my former student's aunt get hitched to a foreign guy.

(Photo credit of ChinaLoveLink.com)

Real snow in Beijing (No, I was wrong)

More snow in Beijing today. But this time it's been Mother Nature's doing, according to local media reports. Over at my college, the snowfall has reached around 6 inches high.

While heading to class this morning, I saw that most students had abandoned their bikes and had to instead slog through the snow.  Meanwhile, I proudly grinned at everyone as I rode my bike on the slushy roads without much incident.

Beijing has had some weird weather lately. Aside from the man-made snow that came earlier this month, last weekend it was 70 degrees, hot enough so that I could happily play basketball. But now we're back to winter again. Maybe the Chinese government can fix this; rather than make it snow, why not give us more sunny days? This makes me envision a future where the weather is determined by popular opinion. I vote for more clear skies.

I'm not always a big fan of snow; we had way too much of it when I was in college at Michigan. But at the very least I can enjoy the cool snowmen on campus.

UPDATE-- Turns out I heard wrong. According to some recent reports the snow was man-made once again.

This time around, the snow storm was accompanied by some spectacular thunder and lightning. While children enjoyed another day of snowball fights and snowman-building, many others in the capital were left grumbling.

“Without advance notice, the weather manipulation led to another big mess yesterday in Beijing, with traffic and flight delays,” the China Daily reports .

Perhaps there is no such thing as real snow in Beijing.