Home at last « Cloudy in Beijing

9May/09Off

Home at last

"My great grandfather Gan You Xi was once an official in the Shanxi province, who oversaw the Liao, Xian and Baode areas for many years. In the city of Taiyuan, he held much prestige. The number of properties he owned was not small, and he had a penchant for collecting antiques. Ultimately, his family was well off."

This is the first paragraph of my grandfather's memoir. Taiyuan, a Chinese city of 3.4 million, thus has a special place for my family. My grandfather grew up around the place, as well as his ancestors before him.

I had never been to the city before, and there are no more Kans left in Taiyuan. But this place is still my true hometown, as one Chinese friend put it. So, with some free time on my hands, I decided to finally visit the place this week.

I had wondered if maybe I'd feel some kind of spiritual connection upon visiting the city. Like my ancestors would imbue me with some sort of power. But no, that didn't happen. Just sore feet and a sore back from walking so much and lugging around my backpack.

I wish my grandfather could have came with me. Then this trip would have had more meaning. Earlier this year he told me he wanted to visit it, but he's confined to wheel chair and doesn't think he can make the trip.

I hope in some way, my coming here can make up for it. But I doubt my grandfather would recognize this city. He had left China in the late 1940's when the communists were taking over. Now Taiyuan has become a modern city, and I rarely see any buildings that look older than a few decades.

Taiyuan is really just another tourist location to me. But it is nice to think, that maybe I'm stepping in the same spots where my ancestors once did. For a few days at least, a member of the Kan family returned back home.